GolfHos

I have

some epoxy (by the way,  are all of them sold at stores full of carcinogens ?  [sm_disgust])

some ferrules

some shafts

some club heads

some grip tape

some grip tape activator

some grips

I tipped the shafts and prepped them


the next step so I am to believe is to  get the ferrule on.

I can't get the thing past 'flush' with the end of the shaft tip

what am I doing wrong?

 :( >:(

some engineer I am
 :'(
I

Try the skinny end.   [sm_devil] ;)

i did
 :(

Appearently something. ;D

If you put a small amount of epoxy on the tip of the shaft, the ferrule will slide on easier.  Once you get it started, use the hosel bore to set the depth (if you don't have a ferrule installing tool).

Some people also recommend warming the ferrule a little first (I've never tried it), maybe with a hair dryer or something.

Usually once I have the ferrule flush, I use the clubhead to push the ferrule down the shaft.

Check out this link (and the others on the site).

http://www.hirekogolf.com/hireko/orderportal/custom_page?formAction=DISPLAY&PAGE=CUSTOM_PAGE_8

I used to use a piece of plywood with a 3/8 inch hole drilled in it to push the ferrule into place.  Now I sand out the inside until it starts onto the shaft, and use the head to seat it (with a little epoxy).

Let me know how you make out.

If you use the clubhead to seat the ferrule on the shaft, BE CAREFUL heating the ferrule!  Get it too warm, and the top of the hosel will deform the ferrule.

I apply a small amount of epoxy to the shaft tip, then slide the ferrule on (flush) by hand, then use the clubhead -- with any tip weights you'll be using dry-fitted! -- and seat with that head.  Then remove the head, add epoxy to the shaft tip, and install the head.

Aske.

I've never built a club.  I can kind of follow what's going on, and the advise you're getting.

Any way you could post pictures of the progress, so I can match it to what you are experiencing, and what they are telling you to do?

In case I incur a head injury, and attempt to try it myself someday.

thanks everyone. I think I'll buy a piece of scrap wood tomorrow and try the drill approach.  seems the least likely  f'up   as a newbie


can anyone now address the other question-  does anyone sell a non carcinogenic epoxy ?

You live in/near P'burgh and you are worried about carcinogenic?? [sm_shock]

Use latex gloves during assembly.

lol, well yeh.  I'd like to MINIMIZE any other risk factors

Good luck, dude.  You are advancing on to a very slippery slope.  And, once again, let me know if you need any of my limited knowledge.

Ted

You know, If you would just lather that *feces* on with a cigarette hanging off your bottom lip.............

carcinogens.....wtf?

Use 24-hour clubmaking epoxy.  Avoid the junk you can pick up at Home Depot -- you risk bond failure.  (Don't ask.)

And no, I doubt there's a non-carcinogenic epoxy.  The chemistry just doesn't allow for it.  If you use it on the clubs instead of drinking it, you should be OK.  You shouldn't be getting it on your fingers anyway, as you'll then leave epoxy fingerprints that are a bear to remove once they set.

If you want to warm up the ferrule, a good way is to:
1. start it on the shaft and get it flush with the end.
2. Run it under very hot water.
3. Push the clubhead on the shaft moving the ferrule down into position.
4. Make sure you dry everything off before you epoxy.
Welcome to the darkside.  [sm_thumbsup2]

Easier way (IMO) is to nuke a mug of water, then drop each ferrule in for ~30 seconds before installation.  You still have to dry them, though.

Personally, I've never had a problem with the epoxy-as-lube method, and I get to avoid the hassle of the hot water, fishing ferrules out of hot water, and having to dry things off.  But whatever floats your boat.

clive, here's my concern.

this is my 1st time doing this.  I don't want to get the epoxy going until I'm sure I have everything set up .   last thing I need is for it to set before I'm ready
 [sm_disgust]

What epoxy are you using?  The standard 24-hour stuff gives you a LONG set time.

Do you plan to eat lunch, do some shopping, bite the heads off some doves, then come back and finish your clubs?

Whatever works, though I'd advise against the quick setting stuff as I doubt the friction generates enough heat to break the bond, and a torch could prove rather uncomfortable. NTTAWWT.

BTW, I had a ferrule split in half during installation the other day. It occurred to me that it was probably because my garage is cold and the ferrules were brittle. I just put a couple in an old yogurt container, set them on top of a heat register for 10 minutes, they slid on like butter on a flapjack, or something similar.

Whale *feces* on an ice floor?

No thanks.

Looks like you've blown a seal.

yeh, I bought the quick set one.

I love that joke!  ;D

"No, no," the penguin assured him, "it's just ice cream."

Even puttnfool knows not to use that stuff.

 [sm_shock] [sm_devil] :D

Zing! ;)

well, i plan to go buy the lumber today.  hopefully the ferrule will go on.
 :o

I also abrade the interior of the ferrule with a bit of sandpaper around a dowel (or pencil) and make sure the prepping of the tip extends about half the height of the ferrule.

The abrasion of the interior of the ferrule is to avoid any possibility of ferrule creep, insures that the interior is clean and free of any oils that may cause the epoxy to fail and has an added bonus of making the ferrule slide on slightly easier when using the epoxy as lube as you seat the ferrule.

Just don't take too much material out of the ferrule or it'll be too loose and cause swearing, the throwing of objects, and the ridicule of everyone who knows better. [sm_rolling]

and to echo another's comment, welcome to the dark side.  [sm_headbang]

Couldn't have said it better.



Lumber?  You just need a little 12" by maybe 2" piece of plywood or clear pine.  Not lumber! [sm_shock]

You are familar with bastard file?  Well you ought to be because it's long and skinny and a bastard.  File inside of ferrule to open it up.  Or you can qtip it with acetone to melt away some of the ID.

I don't slather the tip with epoxy because it creates a mess and is overkill to keep a ferrule down.  Epoxy the inside of the ferrule then sit it on a hunk of cardboard skinny side up.  Ram it in from the top like Ron Jeremy in Master of the *><><><* Flex.  Push down the shaft and the ferrule will flush with the shaft tip.  Then use your head (club) to push down the ferrule to it's final resting (in peace) place.  If the ferrule is still tight, heat it with a gun on the skinny side lightly for about 5-7 seconds. Careful not to over do it or it will deform. Don't heat the fat side as it will mushroom when you push the head down on it.

Sometimes shaft paint is an issue if it's really thick like Pooforce Gold or some Accuflex's. 

Just my 3 peso.

I agree with dyno. I'd avoid the wood method since I've found that it's easy to mash up the ferrule that way.

I tried every way possible to preset ferrules before gluing  (out of fear, like aske), and my ferrules never started to come out right until I just put some epoxy on the inside, got them started on the tip, and then used the clubhead push them into place at the proper depth.

(http://media.marketwire.com/attachments/200608/TN-276392_rab_1715_still1.jpg)



Apparently.

So, after all the helpful (?) advice, how did the clubs turn out?

it's on hold until we get a warmer, dry day.

only have the balcony to work on .
 8)

Looks like that might be a while. :(

I have had semi good luck by placing them in a small glass of water and blasting in the mocrowave. Started with short cycle & increased until they slid on easily (non- tapered shaft), They return to tight fit when cooled. Thats the good side.  ;D

The bad side is my wife informed me that I would eat the next batch.  [sm_shock]

LMAO!!!   ;D

Karma!

I microwave the water without the ferrule in it.  Before that I stick the ferrule on the end of the shaft, just enough to get it to barely stay on the end.  Dip the shaft and ferrule into the hot water, take it out and push the ferrule up until it's flush.  Then use the clubhead to push the ferrule further up the shaft to the right spot.

Another thing you want to be prepared for before you mix epoxy.  Do you know how you are going to clean up any excess epoxy that squirts out between the hosel and the ferrule when you insert the shaft?

I use a spray bottle of denatured alcohol and a paper towel. Anyone have a better solution?

I use a cloth to wipe excess epoxy off the hosel and ferrule of each club as I assemble it.  I then use a cloth lightly moistened with naphtha or mineral spirits to wipe all the hosels/ferrules better (and as my last chance to get stray fingermarks and whatnot).

Spaceage, are you at all concerned about spraying on too much alcohol and having it penetrate into the shaft-bore space?  Or are you spraying the paper towel?

Most of the time, unless I've made some sort of ungodly mess, I just spray the paper towel.

I first use a small piece of dry cloth or paper towel.  Then I use another piece of cloth or paper towel dampened with grip solvent.  I started out using mineral spirits but the grip solvent seems to work fine.

For many, grip solvent = mineral spirits.   :D

Yeah, the first grip solvent I tried was gasoline.  :)  But the Golfworks and Golfsmith grip solvents seem to have less "chemical smell" and nicer to work with.

Aske,

I look forward to hearing how they turn out.  Given your advanced education, you've got to be pretty anal (many call me anal - my wife just calls me an ass).  This is a good thing, I've found, in club-making.

Measure twice, cut once.

I've built about 15 sets now - fun and addicting.